A series of national parks preserve this sparsely populated region’s stunning landscapes, natural heritage and rich indigenous history.
Broken Hill was established in the 1880s to service the mining of massive deposits of silver, lead and zinc in the Barrier Ranges. With its historic buildings, 30 or so art galleries and decent eating options, it is an oasis of civilisation in a sparse landscape. Nearby Silverton is a quintessential outback town, made famous in films such as Mad Max II (1981).
The focal point of the 240 000–hectare Willandra Lakes World Heritage Area, Mungo National Park’s weather-eroded, sculptural sand formations have become one of outback Australia’s signature sights. Around the area’s dry lakes astounding remains have been uncovered, including ancient Aboriginal artefacts and Mungo Man, a full male skeleton estimated to be around 40 000 years old. The undoubted highlight is the huge Walls of China crescent-shaped dune, which you can visit on a 70-kilometre self-guided drive through the park.
The area around White Cliffs has been rendered a moonscape, thanks to 5000 abandoned opal digs. Owing to soaring temperatures in summer much of the town has been built underground, where the temperature remains a steady 27°C. Opals are still mined here, and nearby is spectacular Mutawintji National Park with its sandstone cliffs, river red gums, gorges, rock pools, desert plains and some of the state’s best Aboriginal rock art.
Occupying 310 000 ha of Corner Country – the point where three states meet – Sturt National Park offers a varied landscape of hills, rocks and plains, congregations of native birds and animals, and wonderful wildflowers after rain. Camping is available; check in at the park office in Tibooburra and take advantage of their tours.
‘If you know Bourke you know Australia,’ said Henry Lawson. This Darling River town has become synonymous with the outback and is rich in heritage sites. The Back O’Bourke Exhibition Centre is a fascinating and important modern facility set among river red gums. It tells the story of the river and the outback from the Dreamtime until now.
Charles Sturt was marooned north-west of Milparinka for six months while waiting for rain to replenish his party’s drinking water in 1845. Although some towns have been successfully established in this harsh but beautiful environment, unpredictable conditions mean that it will never be tamed. The land of Broken Hill has brought forth valuable minerals, which can be viewed at White’s Mineral Art and Mining Museum. White Cliffs receives the most solar radiation in New South Wales and so was the natural choice for Australia’s first solar-power station. Sturt National Park is home to the red sands and reptiles of the Strzelecki Desert; here day temperatures are often over 40°C and nights can be below freezing.

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