West Macdonnell National Park
- Introduction
- Fact file
- A look at the past
- Aboriginal culture
- Natural features
- Native plants
- Wildlife
- PADDLE down Redbank Gorge on an air mattress
- HIKE a section of the Larapinta Trail and enjoy the views from the top of the range
- WATCH the sun set over Mount Sonder from Glen Helen
- WALK around Ormiston Gorge and Pound
- CYCLE to Simpsons Gap with the family
Introduction
The weathered MacDonnell Ranges rise abruptly from the flat terrain of central Australia, an ancient landscape of parallel ridges sculptured by the elements over millions of years. In one of the oldest and driest regions of the world, hidden gorges and waterholes in West MacDonnell National Park provide a refuge for plants and wildlife, while the range tops are cloaked in spinifex and hardy drought-tolerant shrubs.
Fact file
Access
From Alice Springs via Larapinta and Namatjira drives; from Kings Canyon and Yulara via Mereenie Loop Rd
Best Season
May to September
Location
Stretches 170 km west from Alice Springs
Park Information
PWCNT Alice Springs (08) 8951 8211
Permits
Permit required for Mereenie Loop Rd, which passes through Aboriginal land; available from Alice Springs visitor centre (08) 8953 0295 or Kings Canyon Resort (08) 8956 7442, 1800 817 622; permit required at some campsites
Size
206 110 ha
Where to Stay
Alice Springs (08) 8952 5800
Glen Helen Resort (08) 8956 7489,
1800 896 110
A look at the past
John McDouall Stuart named the MacDonnell Ranges in 1860. The mineral-rich region with sweeping plains of native grasses soon attracted miners, pastoralists and, later, missionaries. Alice Springs waterhole, initially the site of an Overland Telegraph station in the early 1870s, was the catalyst for founding the town of Alice Springs nearby.
Aboriginal culture
The Arrernte people have lived in this area for more than 30 000 years and the MacDonnell Ranges play a major role in their mythology. The desert people lived well here, constantly walking the country to gather food from underground larders, picking fruit and seeds and hunting animals and birds. Over generations they accumulated knowledge about plants and animals and where to find water. Conflict arose when Europeans arrived and vied for the best watering areas. Bloody battles ensued and during the dispossession that followed, many Aboriginal people were sheltered by missionaries and influenced by Christianity. Today there are important Dreaming trails and sacred sites in the ranges, still visited for ceremonial purposes.
Natural features
Some 850 million years ago central Australia was covered by an inland sea then around 600 million years ago giant earthquakes caused massive uplifting to form the chain of mountains now known as the MacDonnell Ranges. Steady erosion by wind and water has carved out spectacular gorges and canyons, some of which retain pools of water throughout the year. Steep-sided narrow chasms such as Redbank, Glen Helen, Ormiston and Serpentine gorges intersect the ‘west Macs’, as they are known locally. At 1380 metres, Mount Sonder is a landmark of the park and the fourth highest peak in the Northern Territory. The 1531-metre Mount Zeil in the extreme north-west of the park is the highest peak in the ranges.
Native plants
Eucalypt and acacia trees dominate the lower terrain of the park while mallee, mulga and spinifex grasses cling to the dry rugged hills. The range is a refuge for rare and threatened plants and up to 40 species can be traced back to times when central Australia was wetter and covered in lush rainforest. These ancient species include the MacDonnell Ranges cycad (Macrozamia macdonellii) – found at Simpsons Gap, on the cliffs around Ellery Creek Big Hole and in the north of the park – maiden hair fern, skeleton fork fern and mountain hakea. Some common trees include the desert she-oak, river red gum, corkwood and coolibah. Here, too, is the beautiful smooth white-barked ghost gum (Corymbia aparrerinja), which appears often in Aboriginal mythology and was made famous in the paintings of Albert Namatjira. After heavy rains the desert comes alive with wildfl owers including Sturt’s desert pea, the desert rose, native hops and daisies.
Wildlife
With Europeans came a variety of feral animals, including cats, foxes, rabbits, horses, donkeys and camels (see feature, page 299), which either preyed on small mammals in central Australia or severely degraded their habitats. Twelve mammal species have disappeared from the region since European contact and others, such as the bilby, rufous hare-wallaby, mulgara and black-footed rock-wallaby are endangered. The latter has dramatically declined since the 1930s; it has vanished completely from Uluru–Kata Tjuta National Park.Red kangaroos, other rock-wallaby species, goannas and a variety of other reptiles are still common in the west MacDonnells and the park has more than 160 bird species. Emus, spinifex pigeons, painted finches, western bowerbirds and dusky grasswrens are common while, at places like Ellery Creek Big Hole, river red gums are home to western ringnecks and pied butcherbirds. Zebra finches, honeyeaters and pigeons drink from the rock pools, alongside waterbirds such as grebes, darters and white-faced herons.
Featured Activities in the National Park
Introduction
Walking, cycling and 2WD touring are good ways to become acquainted with the park while an aerial view from a fixed-wing aircraft or helicopter is stunning. Swimming is possible at many waterholes but the water can be extremely cold.
Bushwalking
Walks are numerous and the descriptions here are a brief guide only to what is available in various sections of the park.
Cycling
A sealed bicycle path leads off Larapinta Drive, opposite John Flynn’s Grave, 7 kilometres from Alice Springs. The path, stretching some17 kilometres to Simpsons Gap, is even and well formed, suitable for the whole family, and winds through desert habitats that contain river red gums, witchetty bush and mulga.
Scenic touring
Drive west from Alice Springs along Larapinta Drive, past Simpsons Gap and Standley Chasm and turn right onto Namatjira Drive. Named after the renowned Aboriginal artist, the road winds through spectacular scenery with rolling escarpments and layered sandstone walls, reminiscent of many of the painter’s works.
Campsites
Redbank Gorge – Woodland camping area
Serpentine Chalet camping area
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