Great Otway National Park
- Introduction
- Fact file
- A look at the past
- Aboriginal culture
- Natural features
- Native plants
- Wildlife
- PV 13 1963
- Cape Otway Lightstation
- (03) 5237 9240
- TAKE a walk in the forest and see Hopetoun Falls and Triplet Falls
- CLIMB the 1848 Cape Otway Lightstation for panoramic views
- JOIN a night tour and watch for short-beaked echidnas
- SPEND time beachcombing, and picnic at Shelly Beach
- VISIT the cool environs of Melba Gully at night to see thousands of glow-worms
Introduction
Tall forests and fern-filled gullies, woodlands and waterfalls, an exceptionally beautiful coastline and the lofty beacon of Australia’s oldest mainland lighthouse define Great Otway National Park, south-west of Melbourne. The Great Ocean Road, pathway to the mysteries and dramas of the national park, is one of the most spectacular road journeys in the world. Towering, rain-drenched forest, often wreathed in mist, the ravaged limestone coast with its beautiful beaches, pounding surf and maritime history, a range of walking trails and plentiful wildlife are protected in this area, much-loved by its visitors. The national park has recently been extended to include the former Melba Gully, Carlisle River, Beech Forest and Angahook–Lorne state parks. The government’s decision to stop logging leases and prevent clear-felling by 2008 is of critical importance in protecting this region. The park includes magnificent stretches along the coastal rim from just south of Lorne to Princetown, with many memorable views from the Great Ocean Road.
Fact file
Access
From Melbourne via Princes Fwy to Geelong then Great Ocean Road; or via Princes Hwy to Winchelsea then Deans Marsh Rd to Lorne; or via Princes Hwy to Colac then south through Forrest to Apollo Bay or Gellibrand to Lavers Hill
Best Season
Mid-to-late summer and early autumn
Location
150 km south-west of Melbourne
Park Information
Permits
Permit required for horse riding
Size
103 000 ha
Where to Stay
Aireys Inlet/Apollo Bay/Johanna/ Lorne (03) 5237 6529 Cape Otway (Bimbi Park) (03) 5237 9246
A look at the past
In the 1800s, whalers and sealers operated along the coast. Bass Strait was notorious for its dangerous waters, and many ships foundered here after the long journey from England. Tangible reminders, such as the anchors of the Marie Gabrielle and the Fiji, can be seen rusting in the sands. After the Cape Otway Lightstation was built in 1848, development began with the logging of giant mountain ash trees and the clearing of land for grazing, but the more inaccessible areas survived and the national park protects this valuable natural heritage.
Aboriginal culture
The Gadubanud people fished and hunted along this coast until the 1800s, when the increasing intrusion of white settlers left them dispossessed and decimated by disease. Although many coastal shell middens have been submerged, middens at Moonlight Head and Seal Point are reminders of the original inhabitants of the Otways.
Natural features
The park embraces the deep green folds of the Otway Range, created over 150 million years ago. Ancient fossils are embedded in the coastal rock and palaeontologists have discovered evidence of several dinosaurs, including a small herbivore that roamed the region 105 million years ago. The range, rising to 650 metres, bears the full force of the rains that beat in from the Southern Ocean and is clad in wet eucalypt forest and cool temperate rainforest, with lush valleys, rushing streams and waterfalls. The turbulent seas and winds have gouged the limestone coast into craggy forms with small sandy coves and isolated beaches. The waterfalls in the Angahook–Lorne section of the park, such as Erskine Falls, Cora Lynn and Upper Kalimna Falls, are especially beautiful.
Native plants
As you move inland, the coast’s heathlands and open woodlands soon give way to dense forest and rainforest where sunlight filters through the canopy of majestic mountain ash and myrtle beech trees that tower above tree ferns. Near Lavers Hill, Melba Gully, at one time the site of heavy logging and sawmilling, is once again a mass of leafy ferns, moist fungi and moss, thriving in one of the wettest places in the state. A surprise for night-time visitors is the sight of thousands of glow-worms twinkling in the dark along the banks above the walking track. These are the larvae of fungus gnats, enclosed in a web that catches other insects attracted by their bioluminescent organ. Maits Rest is another place to experience the rainforest. It is set among surviving mountain ash and blackwoods, about 10 kilometres west of Apollo Bay. There is a viewing platform to observe the Big Tree, a majestic 300-year-old beech with a girth of 27 metres, which is listed on the National Trust historic register. The walking track at Maits Rest (see Madsens Track Nature Walk in the walking feature, page 93) provides a loop through the rainforest, travelling beneath understorey vegetation of hazel pomaderris, musk daisy bush and austral mulberry to a small creek dominated by ancient myrtle beech and tall tree ferns. Along the creek look up into the foliage of the myrtle beech and you will see large pendulous clumps of hanging moss and epiphytic ferns. The most prominent of these is the kangaroo fern, frequently coloured in shades of yellow, orange and green. During late spring and summer you may see a curious spherical and bright orange fungus, known as the beech orange. Confined to the myrtle beech, the fruiting body of this fungus is distinguished by an intricate honeycomb pattern of indentations containing the spores. In late autumn and early winter the forest floor is decorated with colourful toadstools and coral fungi, cup fungi and puffballs.
Wildlife
At least 36 native mammal species have been recorded in the park and another 13 marine mammal species have been seen in and around the nearby waters. Keep your eye out for short-beaked echidnas, ringtail possums and swamp wallabies. The latter inhabit the heathlands at the Gable. They are adapted for life in the low and dense vegetation: their teeth differ from those of other wallabies and they have significant differences in their reproductive cycle and chromosome numbers. The park is also a haven for several threatened species, such as the rare spotted-tailed quoll and the swamp antechinus. Birdwatchers may see the satin bowerbird and Australian king-parrot, or the albatross, pied oystercatcher and hooded plover along the coast. In the Angahook–Lorne section alone 170 bird species have been recorded.
Featured Activities in the National Park
Introduction
The park offers adventure activities as well as a large number of more leisurely pursuits. Bushwalking, canoeing, fishing, sea-kayaking, surfing, trail rides or fossicking for gemstones are all possibilities, but touring the lighthouse, birdwatching, beachcombing, picnicking, soaking up the sun and just marvelling at nature are other options. The Great Ocean Road passes though the park and is one of the great scenic drives of the world.
Bushwalking
Walking is one of the most popular activities in the Otways. The diversity of environments allows you to choose between boardwalks and fern-fringed tracks through rainforest to solitary rambles along secluded beaches. See feature page 93.
Fishing
There is some great beach fishing (Australian salmon, mulloway, snapper) and inland river fishing (brown trout is typical). Shellfish collecting is not permitted east of Cape Otway.
Heritage trails and tours
Follow the signposted Historic Shipwreck Trail. Tours of Cape Otway Lightstation run daily. Tours run by Koori guides explore significant locations related to the heritage of the local Koori people; contact the Cape Otway Lightstation for details (see Fact File).
Horse riding
Riding and trail rides are another way to explore the park, but a permit is required.
Scenic touring
The Great Ocean Road leads along the coast and provides access to most of the park attractions – or you may just want to enjoy the drive. The famous ocean scenery begins at Anglesea, where travellers are treated to long sweeping beach views capped at the far headland by Urquhart Bluff. At the lighthouse town of Aireys Inlet, the rocky cliffs and stacks, created by the activity of underwater volcanoes, give a preview of the type of land conditions further along the coast. The cliffs grow steeper and the road more perilous from this point, and there are a number of lookouts for those who want time to appreciate the spectacle. As the road nears Lorne the vegetation on the hillsides grows thicker and lusher. The township of Lorne rises from the sea and disappears into the folds of the lower ranges. There are several popular walks in this area. The track to Erskine Falls, for instance, leads past gullies with tree ferns and spurs covered in tall blue gums and manna gums. At the estuarine villages of Wye River and Kennett River, the road runs almost down to the sea. Carisbrook Falls, just west of Cape Patton, are worth a stop. The cascades and rapids fall 200 metres in just half a kilometre, making them the highest falls along the coast.At Apollo Bay the Otway Ranges meet Bass Strait, and the coastal woodland is rapidly replaced by cool fern gullies and areas of rainforest. Here you can venture into an ancient landscape, following the raised boardwalks through canopies of myrtle beech. On the western side of the ranges the road drops down to the sea once more, leading on to the dramatic coastal formations of the Port Campbell National Park (see page 108).
Swimming and surfing
Safe swimming beaches are dotted along the east coast, many located at the popular seaside resorts. Johanna Beach, to the west of Cape Otway, is favoured by surfers but is not suitable for swimming.
Wildife-watching
The diverse habitats ensure plenty of opportunities for wildlife-watching. Check with the rangers about night tours with spotlights to view the park’s nocturnal creatures and evening walks during the summer months.
Campsites
Allenvale Mill Site camping area (walk-in camping)
Cora Lynn camping area (walk-in camping)
Fork Paddock camping area (bush camping)
Jamieson Track camping area (bush camping)
Lake Elizabeth camping area (walk-in camping)
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