Perth
Perth is the most isolated capital city in the world, closer to Singapore than it is to Sydney. Its nearest neighbour, Adelaide, is 2700 kilometres away by road. Yet it is exactly this isolation that has allowed Perth to retain a feeling of space and relaxed charm.
Claimed to be the sunniest state capital in Australia, Perth has a Mediterranean climate: hot and dry in summer, cool and wet in winter. This climate, and the city’s proximity to both river and ocean, fosters a relaxed lifestyle for the population of 1 603 000. One of Perth’s great attributes is that its water frontages are public land, accessible to everyone. Picnicking is a popular pastime, while cafes and bars spill their tables and chairs out onto pavements to make the most of the glorious weather.
Yet for all Perth’s coastal beauty, it is the Swan River that defines the city. North of the river is Kings Park and the old-money riverside suburbs with their grand homes; further on are the beaches and the newer northern beach suburbs stretching up the coast. At the mouth of the Swan is the historic port city of Fremantle, with its rich maritime history, creative community and street-cafe culture. Upstream from Perth – where the river dwindles to a meandering waterway – is the Swan Valley, the state’s oldest wine district.
Visitor information
Western Australian Visitor Centre
Western Australian Visitor Centre
Cnr Forrest Pl and Wellington St
1300 361 351 or 1800 812 808
Getting Around
The city is compact and easy to explore. A free bus service known as the CAT (Central Area Transit) System operates regular services, every five–ten minutes, around central Perth. The blue CAT runs in a north–south loop, the red CAT operates in an east–west loop, and the yellow CAT travels to the city centre from East Perth. (Note that a CAT bus also services Fremantle.) You can also travel free on Transperth buses or trains within the Free Transit Zone in the city centre, but only on trips that start and finish within the zone.
Trains run from the city out to the northern suburbs and down to Fremantle while the Southern Suburbs Railway links Perth to Mandurah. Ferries and cruise boats depart regularly from Barrack Street Jetty to various destinations, including Fremantle, South Perth, Rottnest Island and the Swan Valley wine region. (Transperth runs the ferry to South Perth, while private operators travel further afield.) Perth, with its largely flat landscape, is also excellent for cycling; maps of the city’s 700-kilometre bike network are available at bike shops or online at the Department of Transport website, www.transport.wa.gov.au.
Public transport
Transperth (bus, train and ferry) 13 6213.
Airport shuttle bus
Airport–city shuttle 1300 666 806.
Swan River ferries and cruises
Captain Cook Cruises (08) 9325 3341;Oceanic Cruises (08) 9325 1191.
Motoring organisation
RAC of WA (08) 9301 3113 or 13 1703.
Car rental
Avis 13 6333; Budget 13 2727; Hertz 13 3039; Thrifty 13 6139.
Taxis
Black and White Taxis 13 1008; Swan Taxis 13 1330.
Bicycle hire
About Bike Hire, (08) 9221 2665.
See also Getting to Fremantle, p. 301
Experience
Kings Park and Botanic Garden
Views across the city from Kings Park
Cottesloe
Swimming at any of Perth’s beaches
Lake Monger
Seeing black swans at Lake Monger
WACA
A cricket match at the WACA
Foreshore suburbs
A picnic on the Matilda Bay foreshore
Western Australian Museum
A visit to the Western Australian Museum
Fremantle Markets
Browsing the eclectic offerings at the Fremantle Markets
Subiaco
A footy match at Subiaco Oval
Fremantle Prison
Touring the forbidding Fremantle Prison
City precincts
Grand Old Buildings
Gothic arches and turrets reminiscent of the Tower of London. St Georges Tce (opposite Pier St).
The Maj’, built in 1904, features an opulent Edwardian exterior. 825 Hay St; free foyer tours 10am–4pm Mon–Fri.
In front of this gracious edifice is an immense Moreton Bay fig tree, planted in the 1890s and now classified by the National Trust. 10 Murray St.
Perth’s oldest surviving building (1836), now home to the Francis Burt Law Museum. Cnr St Georges Tce and Barrack St.
Perth’s first purpose-built school was made from sandstone ferried up the Swan River by convict labour. 139 St Georges Tce.
Built by convict labour (1867–70) in the style of an English Jacobean market hall. Cnr Hay and Barrack sts.
This 1879 Anglican church features an impressive jarrah ceiling. 38 St Georges Tce.
Grand Gothic-style cathedral, one end of which was built in 1865. Victoria Sq.
Check out the decorative brickwork of this 1858 building, originally a boys’ school. The old banyan tree adjoining it is something special too. 200 St Georges Tce.
Shopping
Mock-Tudor arcade with souvenir, jewellery and antique stores.
Hay Street Mall, Murray Street Mall and Forrest Place, City
The CBD’s main shopping precinct with brand-name fashion outlets and major department stores Myer and David Jones.
High fashion, galleries and cafes with style.
Funky local designers sit alongside more established labels.
Perth’s up-market fashion hot spot.
Cafes, boutiques and designer homewares.
Walks & Tours
Take a free city orientation tour at 11am Monday to Saturday and noon on Sunday, or learn about Perth’s history and culture on a free guided tour at 2pm weekdays. City of Perth Information Kiosk, Murray St Mall (near Forrest Pl).
This state-of-the-art brewery in Canning Vale is renowned for its Swan and Emu beers. 25 Baile Rd, Canning Vale; bookings on (08) 9350 0222.
Choose from full- or half-day cruises up the Swan River to the Swan Valley, with wine tastings included. Captain Cook Cruises, bookings on (08) 9325 3341.
Free guided walks, including the Botanic Garden Discovery, Bushland Nature Trail and the Memorials Walk, among others. (08) 9480 3600; 10am and 2pm daily.
Kings Park Indigenous Heritage Tour
Learn about bush medicines, bush tucker and indigenous history in this 1.5-hour tour. (08) 9480 3600; 1.30pm daily.
Choose from a range of tours including the fascinating 'Doing Time Tour', every 30 minutes between 10am and 5pm, and the spooky 'Torchlight Tour' on Wednesdays and Fridays at 7pm. 1 The Terrace, Fremantle; (08) 9336 9200.
Enjoy informative on-board commentary as you cruise from Perth to Fremantle and back again. Or take the Triple Tour, which adds an Open Top Bus Tour in Perth and a Tram Tour in Fremantle. (08) 9325 1191.
Gentle bicycle tour from Perth to Fremantle, with coffee at Cottesloe Beach, lunch and beer tasting at Fremantle then river cruise back to Perth. 1300 784 864.
Sport
AFL (Australian Football League) is the most popular spectator sport in Perth, with crowds flocking to Subiaco Oval from April through September to support their local teams, the West Coast Eagles and the Fremantle Dockers. Subiaco Oval is also home to Western Australia’s Rugby Union team, the Western Force, which plays in the Super 14 international rugby union competition.
The cricket season takes up where the footy leaves off, with the famous WACA hosting both interstate and international test matches over the summer months.
Perth’s soccer club, the Perth Glory, play at ME Bank Stadium (formerly Members Equity Stadium) in East Perth. Basketball fans can catch the popular Perth Wildcats from September to February at Challenge Stadium in Mount Claremont, while their female counterparts, the Perth Lynx, play nearby at the new $44 million WA Basketball Centre.
In January, Perth’s Burswood Dome hosts the Hopman Cup, a prestigious international tennis event.
Horseracing is a year-round event, split between two venues: Ascot racecourse in summer and Belmont Park in winter. Events such as the Perth Cup (held on New Year’s Day), the Easter Racing Carnival and the Opening Day at Ascot draw huge crowds. Night harness racing can be seen at Gloucester Park every Friday night.
Entertainment
After once reigning supreme in town, Hoyts and Greater Union have moved out to the suburbs, leaving the city centre bereft of any major cinemas. There is however the Piccadilly Cinema in Piccadilly Arcade in the Hay Street mall, which screens new-release films in Perth’s only surviving grand old Art Deco cinema. The most easily accessible Hoyts cinemas are in Fremantle at the Queensgate on William Street and the Millennium on Collie Street. The closest Greater Union cinema to the city is in Innaloo. Subiaco has an independent cinema, the Ace at 500 Hay St on the corner of Alvan. There’s also Cinema Paradiso in Northbridge, the Luna Palace in Leederville, the Windsor in Nedlands, the Cygnet in Como and, in Fremantle, Luna on SX (Essex Street). In summer, there are a number of outdoor cinemas that operate; favourites are the Moonlight Cinema in Kings Park and the Somerville Auditorium at the University of Western Australia. The latter, which screens films for the Perth International Arts Festival from December through March, is defined by a cathedral of Norfolk pine trees and patrons sit on deckchair style seats under the stars. Programs and session times, including those for the open-air cinemas over summer, are listed daily in The West Australian.
Day Tours
Just off the coast of Perth, the low-key island resort of Rottnest makes for a perfect day tour. Access is via ferry from Fremantle, Perth or Hillarys Boat Harbour. No private cars are permitted: island transport is by foot, bicycle or bus. Visitors to Rottnest can divide their time between the beach and the scenic and historic attractions of the island.
Follow the Great Eastern Highway for a tour of the Darling Range and its 80 000 hectares of escarpment and jarrah forest in the Hills Forest area. Highlights include a scenic drive through John Forrest National Park and a visit to the huge, forest-fringed Mundaring Weir.
Swan Valley
A premier winegrowing district, with vineyards along the scenic Swan River. Other attractions include the historic town of Guildford; Woodbridge House, a Victorian mansion in West Midland; Walyunga National Park; and Whiteman Park, a 2500-hectare area that includes Caversham Wildlife Park.
On the coast north of Perth, Yanchep has long been one of the city’s favourite recreation areas. Have your photo taken with a koala; see didgeridoo and dance performances; or take a guided tour of Crystal Cave, where stalactites hang above the inky waters of an underground pool.
Eco-friendly activities
Perth is a great city to cycle around, with more than 400 kilometres of linked, flat bike paths, including along the Swan River and the 25 kilometres to Fremantle, as well as through Kings Park and Botanic Garden. One of the most popular shorter rides goes around the river and crosses the Narrows and Causeway bridges. There are plenty of places to hire bikes. About Bike Hire at Point Fraser Reserve also hires caboose child trailers and inline skates. You can download maps and guides from the Department for Planning and Infrastructure (DPI) website.
There are some shore dives in and around Fremantle and Perth, and plenty of great boat dives to Rottnest Island and further afield. Dolphin Dive Fremantle is an eco-accredited dive shop with a large boat, and will rent gear and give you more information.
Kayaking in Perth
The Swan River may not be the most interesting place to kayak in terms of natural beauty, but a pod of dolphins often interacts with kayakers around Heirisson Island, and there are plenty of little bays with great birdlife. You can hire kayaks from About Bike Hire (see Cycling above).
Arguably the most scenic botanic gardens in the country, Kings Park and Botanic Garden, with its hilltop location, offers great views over the city and beyond, and has plenty of space for picnicking, cycling and walking. The park extends over 400 hectares, of which 267 hectares is natural bushland. The garden primarily focuses on Western Australian plants, with about 3000 on display. There is a tree canopy walk, some really interesting playgrounds, free guided walks and free electric barbecues.
You can certainly while away a few hours at this excellent zoo, which is involved in conservation and has a breeding program for native endangered species, including the western swamp tortoise, Shark Bay mouse and chuditch (western quoll).
Locals know that beaches near Perth are some of the most underrated in the country, and rarely have crowds. Scarborough is one of the most popular patrolled beaches, and, when calm, Cottesloe can be perfect for a dip with a mask and snorkel. Floreat and City beaches are also recommended.
Whale-watching around Perth
Although there are probably more whales and a greater variety of species further south, whalewatchers on trips leaving from Perth get the bonus of a cruise down the Swan River during the short September–November humpback season. Alternatively, you can leave from Fremantle. Operators include Oceanic Cruises and Rottnest Fast Ferries.
Cafes & restaurants around town
Aquarium 7 km
Located a few minutes out of the city on a busy highway, this surprisingly up-market Chinese restaurant has an emphasis on seafood. Many of the dishes are plucked straight from the tank, soon to be delivered to eagerly... Find out moreHa-Lu 4 km
Ha-Lu was a finalist in the Restaurant & Catering Australia awards within its first year of trading. Offering Japanese cuisine in the Izakaya style, where unstructured meals are served on an ‘as they... Find out moreMust Winebar 2 km
With a suspended wine rack separating the bar from the bistro, owner Russell Blaikie serves food to rival any French Provincial kitchen. Wooden floors, white tablecloths and red walls set the scene, and the bistro-style... Find out moreNew Norcia Bakeries 4 km
Working with the Benedictine community in New Norcia, this Mount Hawthorn bakery produces natural sourdough breads and yeasted breads baked in a wood-fired oven. The aroma of baked goods wafting out to the pavement is... Find out moreRestaurant Amusé 1 km
Restaurant Amusé is a relatively recent addition to the Perth dining scene but its reputation has already spread nationally with its 2007 Restaurant & Catering Australia award for Best New Restaurant. Owner... Find out moreNearby breweries
Billabong Brewing 11 km
Owner Alan Proctor started Billabong Brewing as Western Australia’s first brew-on-premise operation, where homebrewers come to make their own beer and bottle it, using professional equipment. In 2006 Proctor... Find out moreGage Roads Brewing Company 12 km
Established in 2002 by former Sail & Anchor brewing team Peter Nolin and Bill Hoedemaker, Gage Roads Brewing started producing beer from the Palmyra site in mid-2005. The US-born pair was apparently frustrated that... Find out moreSwan Brewery 13 km
The Swan Brewery was established in 1857 by early Western Australian settler Frank Sherwood, who had emigrated from England with his family in 1842. Interestingly, he originally set up a school of classics and languages... Find out moreSail & Anchor Hotel 15 km
The Australian craft beer movement was kick-started at the Sail & Anchor Hotel in 1984 when the first house-brewed ale flowed there. Phil Sexton and his partners in the Matilda Bay Brewing Company were building the... Find out moreLittle Creatures Brewing 16 km
After dabbling in wine and working as a brewing consultant in the US, craftbeer pioneer Phil Sexton re-surfaced in the local beer scene, along with a couple of other former Matilda Bay Brewing heavyweights, with the... Find out moreElmar's In the Valley 20 km
Having established a successful smallgoods business, German-born couple Elmar and Anette Dieren branched out to establish this sizeable bar, restaurant and beer garden complex, which also includes a microbrewery. While... Find out moreDuckstein Brewery 21 km
Duckstein Brewery actually has two separate breweries and outlets located in both the Swan Valley and Margaret River wine regions. The original 60-litre microbrewery (or should that be microscopic brewery) is one of the... Find out moreMash Brewing Company 21 km
The simply named Mash Brewing Company debuted in April 2006, adding to the significant cluster of craft breweries operating out of the Swan Valley. Inspired by the Little Creatures model, the brewery is positioned... Find out moreFeral Brewing Company 24 km
Based in the Swan Valley, Feral Brewing produces a range of sometimes challenging beers that are served on tap at their bar/restaurant (and a handful of other outlets), plus their flagship bottled product Feral White,... Find out moreBootleg Brewery 213 km
Established in 1994 in the Margaret River wine region, this long-running craft brewery bills itself as ‘an oasis of beer in a desert of wine’. The metaphor never quite rang true and even less so in recent... Find out moreCowaramup Brewing Company 219 km
This family-owned microbrewery, based in the Margaret River wine-producing belt, first fired up in December 2006. Cowaramup can be tricky to pronounce for some visitors (correctly: Ca-rara-mup) and the locals often refer... Find out moreThe Old Brewery 2 km
The original Swan Brewery riverside site was re-opened as the Old Swan Brewery in 2001, featuring a microbrewery operated by former Swan head brewer Hugh Dunn. Brewing ceased for a period but the venue has been... Find out moreIronbark Brewery 13 km
One of the Swan Valley’s longest-running craft breweries, Ironbark Brewing is located within the grounds of the former Valencia Winery where customers can enjoy the beers in an Aussie bush-themed setting. The... Find out moreLast Drop Brewery 14 km
This Tudor-style pub (or ‘brewery restaurant’, as it calls itself) is located close to the Swan Brewery and specialises in European-style beers produced by Czech-born brewmaster Jan Bruckner. Brewhouse... Find out moreThe Monk Brewery & Kitchen 15 km
Re-branded in recent times, The Monk Brewery & Kitchen features a 12-hectolitre microbrewery and busy bar/restaurant, located on Freo's famous 'cappuccino strip'. The house beer range includes Pale Ale, Porter,... Find out moreIndian Ocean Brewing Company 33 km
Situated adjacent to a marina north of Perth, this Canadian-built microbrewery came on-line in mid 2006 as part of a new bar/restaurant development. The house beers steer on the safe side of drinkability and Indi Green... Find out moreOld Coast Road Brewery 124 km
Kicking off in March 2007, this 3-hectolitre microbrewery is part of a restaurant/beer garden complex south-west of Perth; the venture is set on a 24-hectare rural property that encompasses a 1000-tree olive grove.... Find out moreOccy's Brewery 198 km
The original partners behind this venture were surfing mates who named it after Aussie surf legend Mark Occhilupo. The brewery’s emblem picks up on the name with a cartoonish octopus. Basically it’s a... Find out moreBushshack Brewery 201 km
Danial and Coralie Wind are behind this family-based craft brewery operating in the Margaret River region. It started life in the late 1990s as the Wicked Ale Brewery but changed its name after some gentle pressure from... Find out moreBlackwood Valley Brewing Company 223 km
Though predominantly a cidery, located in the heart of the Bridgetown apple-growing region of WA, Blackwood Valley produces a range of beers which are available on tap in the venue’s restaurant and to takeaway in... Find out moreColonial Brewing Company 227 km
Colonial Brewing won Champion Small Brewery at the 2006 Australian International Beer Awards, less than 18 months after firing up from the familyfriendly bar/restaurant complex, 10 kilometres outside the Margaret River... Find out moreHotels, motels & B&Bs around town
Medina Apartments 1 km
The Medina Apartments are situated in two locations in the Perth CBD. The Medina Grand and Medina Executive Barrack Plaza both offer studio, one- and two-bedroom apartments, which are self-contained and have internet... Find out morePension of Perth 2 km
Built in 1897, the Pension of Perth is a B&B in a historic home overlooking lovely Hyde Park. All four of the guest rooms have ensuites and feature polished floorboards, high ceilings and open fireplaces. Every room... Find out moreThe Swan Barracks were built in 1896 and are one of the oldest buildings in Northbridge, one of Perth’s premier entertainment districts. In January 2008 they were converted into budget accommodation and are close... Find out more
The Outram 2 km
Known as one of Perth’s most stylish places to stay, The Outram is situated in the city’s elite West Perth district, close to eateries and boutiques. There are a range of rooms and apartments to choose from,... Find out morePopular events around town
Western Australia’s premier horseracing event. January.... Find out more
A day-long party of events, culminating in a spectacular fireworks display. January.... Find out more
Perth International Arts Festival
Music, theatre, opera, dance, visual arts and film. February.... Find out moreCity of Perth Winter Arts Festival
A three-month program of locally created arts and culture. June-August.... Find out moreKings Park Wildflower Festival
Australia’s premier native plant and wildflower exhibition. September.... Find out moreShowcases the state’s primary and secondary resources. September–October.... Find out more
A weekend of jaw-dropping, low-level aerial racing over the Swan River. November.... Find out more